Rangtse nye in Haa
How do you picture Haa?
Cold? Remote? Dry? Ap Chundu? Haap Sata (tough people of Haa)? And many more.
Although born and raised in Haa, I often fail to provide a distinct and unbiased view of the dzongkhag.
The reality is, Haa is the only region with two different temperate zones.
Haa, as we were taught, does not only lie in the north but stretches its boundary towards the south. The two southern gewogs of Haa--Sombaykha and Gakiling share its temperature like that of Samtse.
If you have never heard or travelled to that part of the world, here is a glimpse of what I have seen and experienced.
It is a pleasant drive along Haa chu, and after an hour the ascend towards Tergola is mesmerizing with pines giving its way to shrubs and coniferous trees.
The pass, “gateway to treasures” presents a clear view of both upper and lower Haa. And then you descend to the foot of the mountain.
Here, the air is warmer, no tall trees, only broad leave forest and stinging nettles.
It is like you are no longer in Haa.
After crossing three bailey bridge, the ride-along Sangbay Amo chu or Amo Chu is bumpy. The road is terrible, and thankfully it takes close to 30 mins until you reach the trail connecting Rangtse nye.
If it weren’t for the nye chu (stream from the nye), you would reach the scared cave in less than 10 minutes. But one has to cross the same stream three times.
During summer, the nye is completely cut off due to the swollen stream. And locals says that the brook dries up completely during winter.
What is more surprising and nerve-wracking is the sacred cave.
It is like you are entering a giant dungeon. It is pitch dark inside the cave. The sharp rock points towards you like icicles. Sharp enough to stab you!
As you delve deeper into the cave, it becomes narrower. The further you go, you have to crawl and then snake around searching for end destination.
People who explored the cave said there were seven doorways inside, but I managed to cross only the fourth entry.
Breath becomes heavier, the earth warmer, and the smell of lime and bats suffocated me.
I would recommend those visiting the site to carry a powerful headlight and a guide who knows what is inside the cave.
Without a guide, it is like you are in a ghost movie, waiting for some dark shadow to scare you.
Well, walking around the dark cave with no destination and creepy figures staring at you… I gave up mid-way.
Mostly, I feared snakes. As the place is warm and moist—ideal for snakes to thrive—more than exploring the scared manifestation, I was checking nooks and corners for the monsters !!!
There are myriads of great prints and models. You will be awestruck!
Explore yourself the most unique and sacred cave of Guru Rinpoche and Khando Yeshey Tshogyal.
There are no homestays or guesthouses other than the Dungkhag guest house which remains mostly booked. I suggest you take tents and experience a nightlife right beneath the nye.
